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工作信息
PUMA
Senior Manager Global Strategy And Projects Footwe…
正式员工 · Guangzhou
PUMA
Manager, Territory Retail Operations
正式员工 · Shanghai
ESTEE LAUDER
Marketing Manager, Aveda, Asia Pacific
正式员工 · Hong Kong
ESTEE LAUDER
Function Manager, Integrated Marketing (Ecommerce & Digital), tr China (Hainan Based)
正式员工 · Haikou
PUMA
Senior Manager/Head of Ecommerce Operations
正式员工 · Shanghai
PUMA
Manager, Regional Assortment Planning-South
正式员工 · Shanghai
LULULEMON
门店副经理,成都Skp
正式员工 · Chengdu
LULULEMON
团队领航家-成都Skp
正式员工 · Chengdu
LULULEMON
兼职产品教育家,成都Skp
正式员工 · Chengdu
LULULEMON
产品教育家,成都Skp
正式员工 · Chengdu
LULULEMON
团队领航家,长春欧亚商都店
正式员工 · Changchun
PUMA
Manager Social Sustainability
正式员工 · Guangzhou
LULULEMON
Assistant Manager | 重庆北城天街店
正式员工 · Chongqing
LULULEMON
门店经理,成都大悦城店
正式员工 · Chengdu
LULULEMON
团队领航家 | 青岛万象城
正式员工 · Qingdao
LULULEMON
团队领航家,广州天汇广场店
正式员工 · Guangzhou
PUMA
Teamhead Design Sportstyle Apparel
正式员工 · Shanghai
LULULEMON
门店副经理,海口新海港免税店
正式员工 · Haikou
SHANGHAI E-SENSE BUSINESS GROUP
Stilista di Moda(Creative Designer)
短期合同 · SHANGHAI
SHANGHAI E-SENSE BUSINESS GROUP
Stilista di Modello(Pattern/ Graphic Designer )
短期合同 · SHANGHAI
SHANGHAI E-SENSE BUSINESS GROUP
Assistente Stilista(Assistant Fashion Designer)
短期合同 · SHANGHAI
ESTEE LAUDER
Manager, Sales And Education, Estee Lauder, Travel Retail China (Hainan Based 1)
正式员工 · Haikou
发布日期
2016年4月25日
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Geraldine Wharry: 现代寓言趋势 – 现代寓言趋势

发布日期
2016年4月25日

Across the global Fall Winter 2016 catwalks, “Modern Fables”, a trend we predicted16 months ago, became a driving aesthetic examining a darker and more menacing vision of the world, one where the oppositional forces prevail: black and white, life and death, chaos and control.
 
With direct references to subcultures such as Punk and Goth, the Fall Winter 2016 collections across Mens and Womenswear are imbued with a sense of morbidity, disillusion, reflecting current geo-political and socio-economic concerns.
 


 
What transpires is an interest in macabre design, the disguise death wears in ancient tales with myths such as vampires, Frankenstein and the Undead. The interest in the cycle of life and death is in direct correlation with designers questioning the status quo, the impact of civil unrest, terrorism and transience as seen in brands such as Yamamoto, Hood By Air, A.F. Vandervorst, Y Project, Alexander Wang and Vêtements.
 

What is key here is the loss of innocence and the interest in Gothic literature with Frankenstein representing a key visual influence from its the 1931 movie depiction to the original novel by Mary Shelley. The story is centered on a grotesque creature born from an unorthodox scientific experiment held by scientist Victor Frankenstein. The result unleashes a bold aesthetic stitching together Goth, Monastic costume and Streetwear influences.
 


 
Occult symbols and ritualistic séances are also referenced. We examine the representation of Death. In Celtic tradition and Breton folklore it is represented as a spectral figure, the “Ankou”, and appears as a tall, haggard figure. Folkloric tales are also an inspiration, such as the “Little Red riding Hood”. The tale is seen by cultural anthropologists as a solar myth about the bright sun swallowed by the terrible night (the wolf), with the ultimate escape representing the dawn- spring and the winter. 
 
 


 
Frankenstein’s character inspires a wide range of mechanical metal components such as staples, rings, metal clamps and bolts, seen infused into garments and their articulations. This results in a Punk Anarchy look aligned with areas of political tension in the public realm:  the hairline fractures in societal systems – nationhood, environmentalism, states of war and resistance.
 


 
Metal parts including d-rings, grommets and chains become integral to the garment, surrounding garment openings, sewn in or pressed in, adding both a sense of entrapment and dark sensuality. 
 
 


 
In line with the Street Goth trend seen on the catwalks for the past 2 1/2 years, multiple zippers adorn garments and nod to 90s Rave styles. Here designers focus on skirts and dresses to enhance volumes with gore panels and resulting peekaboo effects.
 


 
What is particularly interesting is the haphazard and non-functional placement of zipper
openings across the front chest and sleeves. This detail gives way to see-through aspects highlighting undelaying patterns and bright linings.



 
The sense of unease and entrapment continues with ties braided and attached in sporadic ways, referencing historical costumes and corsetry.  Lacing takes on repair and surgical qualities with garments appearing stitched back together. Exaggerating lacing and hanging straps also refers to a haggard monster or fully wrapped Frankenstein.
 
To download your sample of our extensive Fall Winter 2016 report click here
 

 
 
WHAT IS DIFFERENT ABOUT OUR CATWALK ANALYSIS?
It is an edit focusing on fashion innovation across mens and womenswear, bringing to the front the key trends influencing the whole of the industry. Our briefing will bring you time-saving and thought-provoking analysis and will inform your choices for: Styling | Silhouette | Details | Materials + Textile applications | Colour
 
Shop our range of vision reports at www.GeraldineWharry.com
 

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