Carlin Group : 巴黎时装周趋势 SS16
After 4 intense weeks of fashion-shows, the Paris catwalks have finished the spring-summer 16 presentations by a memorial day with the shows of Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu, that literally electrified the public with their virtuous concertinaing, making up the portrait of tomorrow’s fanciful heroine. All this was worth resisting till the end of the marathon:
In times of digital, with the profusion of cut/paste images, the fabulous past/future juxtapositions imagined by Nicolas Ghesquière or Miuccia Prada put the actual creative processes into the spotlight and show a totally new vision of the silhouette.
It’s delicious to see what happens when both London and Paris show their interpretations of the 80’s influences. There where the first one favoured the playful experiments, in Paris… they go for chic! In fact this legendary decade corresponds to the golden age of Parisian haute couture and the designers of today show a more or less literal inspiration of it.
Shiny surfaces, satiny, so couture volumes, glamour and that special something! Alexis Mabille, bridgehead of this contemporary neo-couture, is like a fish in the water, while Guillaume Henry for Nina Ricci surprises with his assertive interpretation, that rocks the established house codes!
The come-back of the mermaid
She doesn’t walk, she rolls, and she slides on the catwalk, in between the Manta ray and the jellyfish. The body motion is accentuated by kilometers of ruffles, done in fabrics that are silky and swaying.
After having played the Latin heroines, in red/black and white in New York, the frill confirms it’s importance of the spring-summer 16 season and bravely announces not to be afraid of profusion and multiplication. In short, we will see frills everywhere!
So it seems, she displays a tonic silhouette, a dynamic walk, a color palette that is fresh and graphic, based upon white. The lines are clean and precise, subtly expressing the retro-sport and contemporary design references.
But at a closer look, beyond the sporty air, this girl is a real Fashionista. Revealed! Because there it is, one of the major trends of the season, that besides the shapes also shows an interesting fabric story.
The indispensable must-have
« And the winner is… »
The comeback of the silver leather pants! But in a wide-leg version or boyish.
There you have the ultimate statement item that transforms whoever into an it-girl. Yes, it’s a little sweating, but you can’t have it all!
Thomas Zylberman Women’s RTW Stylist, Carlin Group
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